Patrick Li AW13 Catwalk Show

Patrick Li catwalk images by Lin Vitali, Review by Emma Scott.

Note: The author's views are entirely his or her own and may not reflect the views of RetoxMagazine.com

Patrick Li AW13

Patrick Li’s luscious layering

Imagine the mortifying moment you get your dress stuck in a car door and it’s ripped right down one side, you almost cry but remember that at least you put on your nice underwear earlier that day.

Okay I know I sound like I’ve gone slightly mad, but wait there’s method in the madness! When browsing through the photos of this collection, I came across a few rather odd dresses. One in particular had an asymmetric black outer layer, with a glittering, shorter silver layer underneath. This then got me thinking how it seemed like half of the model’s dress had been ripped away revealing this beautiful under layer, hence the getting your dress stuck in a car scenario. Ah I get it now, I hear you cry! No, just me then? Ok. Nevertheless layering is the staple feature that dominates this geometric yet chic collection by Patrick Li.

The garments are modern yet classic, mixing luxurious velvet fabrics with smooth leathers and matt cotton. The palette is very earthy and rich, with deep mahogany and chocolate brown, alongside black that is highlighted with dazzling panels of sequins decorating collars and hemlines.

Ones To Watch: Patrick Li AW13/14 catwalk show.

Ones To Watch: Patrick Li AW13/14 catwalk show.

Grab your set square we’re going geometric

Li shows off his interesting use of panelling very well in this collection, although the finished silhouettes are kept very clean and simple, the use of layering of panels creates an interesting, and almost ‘work in progress’ feel to the garments. When looking closely at the garments, all I could see were rectangles and triangles, for example dresses that feature asymmetrical triangular hems, and bodices with sparkling triangular inserts between seams.

What’s interesting about these garments is that there is no contouring, the fabric simply drapes around the body and falls fluidly. Instead Li has opted to layer contrasting fabrics at odd angles to highlight and define areas of the body such as the waist. This is something that surprised me, but I think it’s very effective the way voluminous folds of fabric are left to curl and wrap the body instead of being manipulated.

The simplistic shapes used to create the garments keep them being very wearable, and leave a lasting impression of office chic with a glamorous twist. Everything down to the swept back ponytails and black patent heels of the models was kept very classic, fresh and clean. However the diverse range of fabrics adds unique textures to each of the garments to stop the slightly plain colour scheme becoming too boring.

Ones To Watch: Patrick Li AW13/14 catwalk show.

Ones To Watch: Patrick Li AW13/14 catwalk show.

Pretty or pretty boring?

Something I have been toying with since viewing this collection; is it just plain or rather sophisticated? For an Autumn/Winter collection the colour scheme doesn’t exactly put the ‘merry’ in Merry Christmas, and although there are lovely hints of brown, black seems to dominate the eye and overpower any colour in its path. I do like the use of the glittering panels, which I feel was most successfully used as a collar on a crisp white shirt, something I can see filtering down to the high street very quickly. However there’s just something very underwhelming about this collection. Necklines were kept very simple, bateau rounded or asymmetric, and although dipped hems made an appearance, due to the unstructured nature of the garments, it seemed to make them just appear heavy. The models were swallowed up by their clothing; one especially was sporting a rather large knee length coat, the coat featured no fastenings and hung off of her like washing on a washing line.

Now that’s not to say there weren’t a few garments that I liked, my personal favourite was a cute asymmetric, velvet and leather mini dress, with peplum style silver detailing. It would be perfect for parties and is very easy to accessorise and ‘glam up’ as you wish.

Ones To Watch: Patrick Li AW13/14 catwalk show.

Ones To Watch: Patrick Li AW13/14 catwalk show.

Ones To Watch: Patrick Li AW13/14 catwalk show.

Ones To Watch: Patrick Li AW13/14 catwalk show.