Written by Phoebe Fisher, photography by Lin Vitali
Note: The author's views are entirely his or her own and may not reflect the views of RetoxMagazine.com
Inbar Spector's Spring/Summer 2012 designs were outrageous and elaborate highlighting the incredible skill and imagination of the Israeli born designer. It had the audience gawping and applauding from the outset, and was the most exciting show I attended during London Fashion Week this season. I just didn’t want it to end.
Admittedly from reading the press release I wasn’t much looking forward to the collection, taking its influences from 'nightmares' and 'visions of violence', I had made a snap judgement that it was going to be very dark and depressing. How wrong I was. The clothes were far more angelic than demonic with subtle hints to the gothic era and more enchanting than threatening.
London Fashion Week - Inbar Spector's SS12 collection. See more images from Inbar Spector's SS12 catwalk.
The collection opened with metallic patched faux leather oversized jackets that held a retro ski-gear vibe, these were paired with wispy sheer dresses creating a great contrast of texture. As the show progressed the intricate skill and craftsmanship took centre stage as layers of transparent fabrics overlay laser-stenciled bodies, holding a sci-fi edge. The styling complimented the look well with punkish mohawks featuring flashes of pink and metal-wear emphasising the dark and futuristic feel of the collection.
Lightweight fabrics were heavily manipulated to create very structured pieces, with the detail in full skirts causing whiplash among the audience as people desperately tried to take a closer look. The white bridal-like gown was a masterclass in construction. Its huge crinoline skirt was smocked entirely with corestina like detailing, made up of hexagon correlating shapes similar to that of a beehive.
The clever exploration of strength and bold silhouettes through fragile fabrics was a huge success and was captured beautifully in the finale piece. The lantern-like dress looked as though it was made out of gold paper doilies, with the bodice fitting like a second skin, which had the audience in a frenzy as Inbar Spector received the loudest applause I heard all Fashion Week.
Inbar Spector, I salute you!